If you think that a road is just a boring way to move from point A to point B, then you clearly haven’t traveled to Northern Luzon. The journey from Manila to the Banaue rice terraces is an adventure in itself, which I would call the “ultimate Philippine road trip.”
The first couple of hours, we drive through the lowland provinces. Life is in full swing here: endless roadside markets, bright “jeepneys” honking at everyone they pass, and vast fields where work never stops for a minute. But as soon as we start climbing toward the provinces of Pangasinan and Nueva Vizcaya, the air changes. It becomes cooler, lighter, and begins to smell of pine needles.
This is the border. The frontier between the familiar tropics and the rugged highlands.
One of the most iconic moments of the road is Dalton Pass. This is a strategic point known to anyone even slightly interested in the history of World War II. Fierce battles were fought here, and today, the pass is a place of silence.
We always make a stop here. Why? Because this is where the first truly massive view of the Cordillera mountains opens up. When you stand on the edge of the observation deck, you feel tiny. Before your eyes are the layered “cakes” of mountain ranges receding into the haze. It is at this moment you realize: something grand awaits ahead.
Let’s be honest: the road to the north is a test for the vestibular system. Endless serpentines, sharp turns, and occasional fog. If you decide to make this journey on your own behind the wheel of a rental car, be prepared to miss almost all the beauty—your entire attention will be glued to the road.
At Werdana Travel, we approach this differently. We use specially prepared minivans, and at the wheel are our guys who know every “blind” turn on this path. This allows you to look around instead of gripping the door handle. And there is plenty to see: mountain streams, waterfalls tumbling right off the shoulder, and small houses clinging to the cliffs like swallows’ nests.
We are not proponents of driving for 10 hours without a break. On the way to Banaue, we make “smart” stops.
First, it’s necessary to stretch your legs and drink that local coffee, which feels completely different at high altitude.
Second, to acclimate to the mountain climate. Here, at altitude, evenings can be quite chilly, and it’s a great reason to pull out the light jacket you (hopefully!) didn’t forget to pack.
The road to the north is a meditation. By the time the first outlines of the rice terraces appear in the distance, you will feel like a completely different person. Manila, with its traffic jams and roar, will remain in another dimension. You have arrived in a country of mountains where different laws rule.
